It’s that time of year again, the cutting season is coming to an end, and the cooler weather is closing in. Soon the grass will stop growing, and your lawn mower will need to be put away for the winter. This means it’s time to winterize your riding mower. I want to share with you my step-by-step process for correctly winterizing your mower so that it’s protected over the cold months and ready for the first cut in spring.
Equipment List for the Task of Winterizing a Riding Mower
Before the end of the cutting season, it’s best to prepare yourself for the winterizing process. This means you’ll need to gather some tools and parts to be ready when the time comes. Let’s take a look at what you’ll need.
- Fuel Stabilizer
- Oil Filter
- Oil
- Air Filter
- Pre Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Spark Plug
- Silicone Spray
- Cleaning Equipment & Power Washer
- Blade Sharpening Equipment
- Grease Gun with Zurk Fitting
- Socket Wrench Set
- Oil Filter Wrench
- Spring Puller
- Blade Brace
- WD-40
- Oil Catch Pan
- Battery Tender
- Mower Cover
- Protective Gloves
How to Winterize a Riding Lawn Mower (Step By Step)
To comprehensively winterize your riding mower, whether it be a riding mower, lawn tractor, or zero-turn, you’ll need to carry out the following tasks.
- Add Fuel Stabilizer
- Oil Change
- Air Filter Change
- Fuel Filter Change
- Replacement Spark Plug
- Sharpen Blades
- Cleaning
- Belt Removal
- Cover & Store
Fuel Stabilizer
Before storing your mower for the winter, you must make sure that the fuel is protected from degrading. The best and easiest option is to add a fuel stabilizer to the fuel. Alternatively, you can drain the fuel system, but this leaves the mower exposed to potential rust problems, so I highly recommend using a stabilizer.
To add a stabilizer to your fuel, simply follow the mix ratio stated by the particular product you select and mix it with the fuel. Then, before switching off the riding mower for the last time, make sure that you have added the stabilizer and run the engine for five or so minutes so that the protected fuel can pass into the whole fuel system.
Oil Change
The next job on the list is to change the oil and oil filter. This is going to prevent any damage caused over the winter from old, used oil sitting in the engine. Here’s what you’ll need to do.
Locate the Drain Plug
First, locate the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. You will find a bolt in the base of the sump at usually the lowest part of the engine. This is where all the oil collects inside the engine.
Remove the Plug & Dipstick
Position your oil catch pan under the drain plug location and remove the plug. You should be able to use your socket wrench to remove the plug. To increase the flow of oil, remove the oil filler cap/dipstick. Once the oil has stopped draining, you can move on to the next step.
Remove the Oil Filter
Next, using your oil filter wrench or strap wrench, loosen off the oil filter. Once it’s loose, you can unscrew it by hand and remove it. Make sure that you have positioned the oil catch pan under the location of the filter.
Install the New Filter
Take your new filter and apply a little oil to the rubber washer. This will stop the washer from binding up when it’s installed. Next, screw the filter onto the lawn mower and tighten it.
Clean & Install the Drain Plug
Next, give your drain plug a good cleaning. These plugs are usually magnetic and catch any metal filing from within the engine. You want to make sure that the filing is removed and not put back into the engine. Once it’s clean, you can reinstall it into the engine and tighten it using your socket wrench. Finally, use a cleaning cloth to clean off any spilled oil.
Fill the Engine with Oil
With the old filter replaced and the old oil removed, you can go ahead and fill your engine with fresh oil. A 5W-30 oil should work fine, but depending on your location and specific mower, this may vary, so check what is recommended for your mower.
Run the Engine
Finally, once the oil change is complete, it’s best to run the engine for a minute. This allows the oil to travel through the engine and fill up the filter. After one minute, switch the engine off and allow the oil to settle in the engine. Next, check the oil level using the dipstick and top it off if you need to.
Replacing the Air Filters
Let’s move on to the air filter. You’ll likely find that your riding mower has more than one air filter. The bigger engines tend to always use a pre-filter along with a filter. Here’s what you’ll need to do.
Remove the Filter Cover
The first thing you’ll want to do is remove the air filter cover. These larger mowers usually have two metal clips holding on the cover that you can unclip. Remove the clips and pull off the cover.
Remove the Filter
Next, remove the outer filter and then the inner filter. These should detach by just pulling on them. It’s always a good idea to replace the filters at the end of the season as cleaning them can only do so much. If you think they are still in good condition, you could try blowing them out with an airline and save the cost of new filters.
Install the New Filter
Take your new/cleaned filters and install them the same way you removed them, just this time in reverse.
Reinstall the Cover
Finally, place your air filter cover back in and reattach the clips to hold it in place.
Replacing the Fuel Filter
Your zero-turn mower may have two fuel filters, one for each fuel tank if you happen to have double tanks. It’s the same process to change any fuel filter on a riding mower. If you have dual tanks, you’ll want to look to see if you have a second filter.
Switch Off the Fuel
The first thing you will want to do is switch off the fuel using the fuel-cutting-off valve. This will stop fuel from flowing once you remove the filter.
Remove the Spring Clips
Next, use a pair of pliers to pinch the spring clips and slide them down the fuel line so they are no longer over the filter. You’ll need to do this on each end of the filter and all of your fuel filters.
Remove the Fuel Filter
With the spring clips removed, you can go ahead and remove the filters. If you find the fuel line is stuck, try to twist the filters to break the seal between the fuel line and the filter. Then, pull the fuel lines from the filter.
Install the New Filter
Slide your new filter onto the fuel lines. When installing the new filter, make sure that you have it facing the right direction. If you look on the side of the filter, you should see an arrow stating the direction of flow.
Replace the Clips
Next, use your pliers to slide the spring clips back into position so that they grip the fuel line and the filter at the same time.
Open the Fuel Valve & Test
Finally, open the fuel cut-off valve and start the engine. It’s going to take a minute or two to get the fuel through the system as it will be full of air. With a few cranks of the starter, the fuel pump will pull the fuel through and fire up the engine. Just remember to switch the fuel back on.
Replacement Spark Plug
Depending on the size of your mower, you might have an engine that requires multiple spark plugs as it has more than one cylinder. If you do, then you’ll just repeat the process for each spark plug and cylinder head.
Remove the Ignition Cable
First, locate the spark plug on your lawn mower, remove the attached ignition cable, and tuck it out of the way.
Remove the Old Spark Plug
Next, use your spark plug wrench to remove the old spark plug.
Install the New Spark Plug
Grab your new spark plug from its box and screw it into the engine. Just be careful not to over-tighten as spark plugs can easily snap in half.
Replace the Ignition Cable
Finally, reattach the ignition cable and test that the engine fires up.
Sharpen/Replacing the Blades
It’s always a good idea to sharpen the mower blades before you put the mower away for winter. This is a job nobody likes to have to do when they first pull out their mower in spring. So here’s what you’ll need to do.
Remove the Spark Plugs
Before you reach under the deck, you will need to remove the ignition cable from the spark plug. This is to make sure that there are no mishaps like the engine accidentally firing up.
Raise the Cutting Deck
Most of us have to lay on the floor on our backs to remove the blade from our ride-on mower. So, if this is your situation, you’ll want to make sure the deck is lifted into its highest position and locked into place.
Brace the Blades
Once you are under the mower, you will need to brace the blade so that it doesn’t spin when you remove the center bolt holding the blade on. For this, I use an old piece of 4×2 wood wedged up inside the deck.
Remove the Mounting Bolt
Next, use your socket wrench to remove the bolt holding the blade on. It could be a good idea to wear some protective gloves if your blades still have a bit of a sharp edge. You’ll need to repeat this process for each of the blades.
Sharpen/Replace the Blades
At the end of the year, I always like to try to replace the blades. But if you think your blade has plenty of life left, then give them a sharpen. Just make sure that you sharpen your blades to the correct angle, or you could be creating a problem for yourself.
Reinstall the Blades
Finally, you have to reinstall the blades using the same process as removing them, just this time in reverse. Make sure you don’t forget any spacers and put the blade on the correct way. It wouldn’t be the first time blades have been installed upside down. An extra tip is to spray the hole where the bolt goes in with a little WD-40. This makes removing the bolts much easier next time.
Final Cleaning of the Mower
Before the mower is stored away, it needs a final cleaning. This is going to remove any dirt and grass that could potentially corrode the mower’s metal. Here’s what I find to be the best way to clean down my riding mower.
Lift Up the Cutting Deck
Some parts of riding mowers are hard to get to, so raising the mower deck will help with cleaning it. Raise the deck and lock it into place so it can’t fall during cleaning.
Spray the Engine with a Degreaser
Grab a can of degreaser like WD-40 cleaner and spray it onto the areas where oil and fuel have spilled. Allow it to soak in for five or so minutes.
Remove Any Guards
Next, remove any guards the mower has so you can get right into the mower.
Power Wash Mower
Whenever I clean a riding mower, I always use a power washer. It makes it much easier to get to hard-to-reach places like the underside of the cutting deck. You just need to be careful around the fuel filler cap, air intake, oil cap, any dipsticks, and electrical items. The last thing you want to do is blast water into the engine or damage the electrical systems.
Dry the Mower
Once I’ve finished washing the mower, I use my leafblower to dry out the mower. A blower really gets into all the gaps and dries the water out.
Silicone Coat the Metal
Finally, once the mower is dry and clean, you can spray all of the metal with a silicone spray. This includes the deck and the engine. Silicone spray is a product I have used throughout the years to protect all the metal from rust. It even stops the deck from clogging with grass in the summer.
Grease Pulleys
Riding mowers usually have grease fittings called zerks. These special fittings allow you to connect a grease gun and inject grease into the pulley’s bearing. Take a close look at your pulleys and see if you have zerk fittings. If you do, then you’ll need to do the following.
Attach the Gun
Grab the end of the grease gun with the zerk connector attached and press it onto the zerk fitting on your lawn mower. You should feel it click on when it’s in the correct position.
Inject Grease Until it Leaks
Fill the pulleys until you can’t squeeze the gun anymore or until the grease oozes out of the sides. You’ll know you have injected enough grease when you get to this stage.
Belt Removal & Dressing
As the mower isn’t going to be used during the winter, there is no need to keep the deck delt under tension. I always take my belt off of the tensioner and pulleys so that it doesn’t get stretched. Once it’s off, I like to give it a coating of dressing to keep it supple.
Remove Tension Spring
Depending on how you take the belt on and off, you may be able just to roll the deck belt off. If it’s difficult, a spring-pulling tool will help you remove the tension spring instead. Then, hook the spring puller over the spring and lift it off its mounting point.
Remove the Belt
This next step is for those of you who are able to remove the belt from the mower. For those who have other belts in the way, like the drive belt, you’ll have to leave it where it is.
Dress the Belt & Store
Finally, give your belt a good coating with belt dressing. For you guys who took your belt completely off, then wrap it up and slide it into a drawer, so it’s safe and ready for next season.
Tire Protection
Unlike other lawn mower designs, riding mowers have inflated tires that need some extra attention. Here’s how I like to protect my mower’s tires for the winter.
Spray with Silicone Spray
Use your silicone spray to give the whole tire a good coat. Next, use an old cloth and work the spray into the rubber. I always give this a couple of goes so that I know plenty of spray gets into the tires.
Battery Tender
The electrical system on your lawn mower uses a battery to run things like lights, clutches, and the starter motor. In the past, I’ve always disconnected my lawn mower’s battery before putting it away for the winter.
You just need to disconnect the cable from the terminals using a socket wrench to do this. With the new batteries, there isn’t much need to completely remove it unless you want to sit it on a bench to charge in the spring.
Depending on your mower, it could have a dedicated plug on the side where you plug in its own battery tender. If you do, then you’re probably already familiar with the process. Just read the manual to ensure it’s safe to cover the mower when it’s charging. Lots of manufacturers say that you shouldn’t cover when tendering.
Cover & Store
The last thing you’ll need to do with your riding mower is to store it in a place where it’s safe and protected. This needs to be somewhere out of the weather and away from water. I park mine in the corner of my garage, where I know it will stay dry. Finally, if you can, cover the mower. Most manufacturers make covers for their mowers for this exact reason, so you should be able to find one that fits perfectly. If not, you could resort to a tarp or blanket of some sort.
Winterizing a Zero Turn Mower – Anything Extra You Need to Do?
The one main difference between a zero turn mower and other ride-on mowers is that it has a hydrostatic drive that can have its fluid changed. This isn’t really of concern for winterizing as the oil works differently from what engine oil does. If you have an oil reservoir on your hydro, you just need to make sure that it stays at the correct level throughout the year by checking the reservoir. The oil in the hydro shouldn’t have a problem lasting at least five years.
Problems Proper Winterization of Your Riding Mower Can Help You to Avoid
If you happen to skip winterizing your riding mower even for just one season, you could face several problems come the start of the next season. Winterizing a riding lawn mower can take some time to complete, but it’s far less than the time required to repair a mower that missed the process.
Here are some of the problems caused by skipping winterizing a riding lawn mower in the fall.
- Rusting of the mower deck and structure
- Rusting of the internal components of the engine
- Fuel gumming of the fuel system and carburetor
- Oil sludge forming in the sump, causing overheating & poor performance
- Stretching of the deck belt
- Dry rotting of the tires
- Seizing of pulleys
- Dead battery
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