Hard dirt, compacted soil, solid ground, or whatever you want to call it, will need some work. In order for grass seed to germinate and flourish, it needs to be planted in specific conditions. So, if you have a piece of ground that isn’t ideal, you will need to follow some tried and tested cultivation practices or have a Plan B for your grass seed to grow.
How to Plant Grass Seed on Hard Dirt (The Short Answer)
Ground preparation for grass seed is a multi-step process that ensures the ideal growing conditions are created. Each of the following items plays a vital role in seeding a flourishing lawn. Failure to achieve each step reduces the probability of success.
- Even Surface
- Perennial Weed Free
- Good Drainage
- Nutrient Compatible
- Appropriate Aeration
Step By Step Guide to Planting Grass Seed on Hard Ground
In my experience, if you spread grass seed on hard ground without preparation, you are heading for failure. So let’s take a closer look at the stages you can follow to prepare your area. Here’s what you need to know.
Stage 1: Testing the Ground
Before doing anything to the ground, you must test the soil. The results will tell you what your area lacks in terms of nutrients and what type of soil you have. This is important for items such as drainage and soil suitability for healthy grass. It can take a while to get the results for these tests, so doing them ahead of time is a good idea.
Stage 2: Clearing the Area
Some of you might have weeds and old grass already growing in the areas where you want to plant your grass seed. To tackle this, I suggest you mow down what is already there and make sure that your mower has a collection bag. It’s important to collect the clippings in a mower bag so that you can limit the number of weed seeds you spread across the area.
Stage 3: Killing the Weeds
Once you have removed the bulk of the vegetation, you’ll need to grab some chemical weed killer. Products like Round-Up work just fine. Now, this process can take several weeks if you want to have the best chance of killing as many weeds as possible. So you might need two or three applications of the weed killer.
Also, because perennial weeds like dandelions and daisies grow differently than other weeds, they are resistant to Round-Up. Grab a shovel and dig out those extra stubborn weeds to overcome this. When digging out weeds, make sure to remove the whole root, as just a tiny section left behind can be enough to bring a weed back to life.
Stage 4: Cultivating
To solve the hard ground issue, you have to get yourself some equipment to cultivate. Now, this could be a shovel or, my preferred tool, a gas-powered rotavator. This process aims to break up the topsoil, make sure the ground can drain properly, and turn in any remaining vegetation.
Stage 5: Responding to the Soil Test
Once you get your soil test back, you will find out if you need to add any fertilizer to the ground before seeding. Before planting is the perfect time to add a slow-release fertilizer and any other additive the soil might be missing. Also, you’ll find out which type of soil you have. If you discover that your soil isn’t all that great for grass, add some topsoil or some type of compost. The results of the soil report will determine the specific type of compost.
Stage 6: Cultivating
Depending on what action you took during stage 5, you might need to cultivate again using your rotavator. This is so that you can mix in any fertilizer and added topsoil/compost.
Stage 7: Leveling
Once you have your new area cultivated, you’ll need to grab your landscaping rake and level out the surface. Leveling is necessary to eliminate any holes, dips, and uneven areas.
Stage 8: Rolling
The ground should no longer be hard and compacted. In fact, it is probably too fluffy, and you will have to compact it a little to remove some of the air from the soil that the rotavator added.
Now, if you have a roller, you’re in luck. If not, you’ll have to use a more DIY method. I find that shuffling over the soil somewhat as a penguin works nearly as well as a roller. The desired result is to compact it enough so that you don’t sink when you stand on the ground.
Stage 9: Watering
Once the ground is prepped, you need to give it a good soaking. I suggest watering it twice as much as you usually do. Soaking the ground will help remove any pockets and get the fertilizer to start dissolving into the earth. If you have the time, it would be a good idea to let the ground settle for a week or two after watering.
Stage 10: Tilling
Tilling is another cultivation process, but you are only cultivating the top ½-1 inch this time. This is the top of the soil where the grass root will grow. I like to use a landscaping rake with a 1-inch tooth for this stage of the process. This is because the 1-inch tooth prevents me from disturbing too far down into the ground.
Stage 11: Seeding
Finally, it’s time to seed. Once you have selected your preferred seed, you’ll have to choose your seed casting/spreading method. My preferred method is to use a hand spreader for small lawns and a spreader on wheels for more extensive lawns. The only method I don’t recommend is casting by hand. This tends to be messy and uneven, or that could just be me.
Usually, the amount of seed you need to spread per square foot is written on the grass seed packaging. Additionally, you’ll find that modern casters have settings that match the requirements. So, once everything is set up correctly, all you need to do is walk the new area and try your best to get even coverage and not miss any spots.
Stage 12: Rolling
The final step is to roll or tread the seed into the ground. This stage aims to press the seed into the top 1-inch of soil, ensuring the seed is surrounded by soil. Any seed left up on the surface will struggle to germinate. So, grab your roller or tread and make sure to go over the entire area.
Stage 13: Watering
The last job is watering. For the seeds to germinate, the ground needs a good soaking. But how often should you water new grass seed? You will need to water the area twice a day and make sure that the top 1-2 inches are moist at all times.
After a couple of days, you should start noticing the grass germinating as the ground starts turning from a dirt color to green. After a week or so, you should be able to reduce the watering down to once a day. Then after a couple of weeks, you should be able to use the regular watering schedule you use for the rest of the yard.
Selecting the Right Grass (Varieties That Do Well with Hard Ground)
Grass selection is absolutely crucial when faced with hard ground. Picking the wrong grass type will put all your hard work to waste. So, if you have a yard with one of the harder soil types like clay, then you’ll need to know which is the best seed for those conditions.
Here are some varieties of grasses that work well in hard ground.
| Grass Seed Type | Climate |
|---|---|
| Buffalo Grass | Warm |
| Zoysia Grass | Warm |
| Bermuda Grass | Warm |
| Kentucky Bluegrass | Cool |
| Perennial Ryegrass | Cool |
| Tall Fescue Grass | Cool |
Planting the Grass Seed on Hard Ground (My Top Tips for Success)
So, will grass seed grow on hard soil? I’d say yes, as long as you follow my steps on how to plant grass seed on hard dirt. I’ll throw in a few extra tips to increase your chances of success and help your new lawn thrive.
Pick the Right Time to Seed
Because stores sell a big selection of seeds, it can be tricky to pick the right type that is suitable for your land. So, take your time and do extra research to select which seed grows well in your specific location.
Having your soil report at hand is really going to help in this stage. Also, take a look in your neighborhood and see what other lawns are doing well. If you work out what grass types these lawns use (there are lots of smartphone apps that can help you do that these days), then you should be able to achieve the same success.
Be Aware of the Rain
When you’re out watering, make sure to pay attention to the weather. If you have rain in the forecast, then you will have to compensate for the extra watering. The last thing you want to do is overwater as too much water can rot the seeds and new roots before they even get a chance to grow into a lawn.
Don’t Fertilize Too Early
Grass seed doesn’t need to be fertilized until at least six weeks after the seeds have germinated. Fertilizing newly seeded lawns too early can damage the new sprouting grass and cause it to die.
Additionally, if you fertilize the ground before seeding, it will take approximately 6-8 weeks for it to completely dissolve, as most granular fertilizers have a portion of slow-release.
What to Do After You’ve Planted Your Grass Seed on Hard Ground (Aftercare)
Once the grass starts growing, you will be tempted to get out the lawn mower. But before you do, you’ll need to check how the grass is doing. The main thing to check is if all of the seeds have germinated. You’ll find that seeds can germinate at different times, so it’s possible that there could be a week or two for the delayed seeds to catch up with the early sprouts.
In addition, you want to leave enough time for the germinating seeds to bury their roots. If you head out too early with the mower, you’ll end up sucking up any seeds that haven’t germinated or rooted. It takes about 4-8 weeks for the seed to establish enough to start mowing, so be patient.
How to Grow Grass on Hard Packed Dirt: Stage Checklist
Below is a checklist that covers how to plant grass seed on hard dirt. Following these steps, you should be successful with your new grass seed.
| Stage | Activity |
|---|---|
| 1 | Soil Testing |
| 2 | Area Clearing |
| 3 | Weed Killing |
| 4 | Cultivating 10 inches |
| 5 | Fertilizer & Composting |
| 6 | Cultivating 10 inches |
| 7 | Ground Leveling |
| 8 | Rolling |
| 9 | Watering |
| 10 | Tilling |
| 11 | Seeding |
| 12 | Watering |
| 13 | Mowing |
| 14 | Fertilizing |
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