Buffalo grass and bermuda grass are both good choices for lawn grass. One is a more native choice, able to adapt to a wider range of circumstances. The other is more resilient and is considered by many to be invasive. In appearance, these could not be more different grass types. One is soft and flowing while the other is coarse and stiff. If you’re trying to decide between buffalo vs bermuda grass types, each of the following points should be gone over carefully.
Comparing Buffalo Grass vs Bermuda Grass
Right off the bat, buffalo grass is soft and a gentle blue-green. It needs to be kept long and can tolerate shade. It’s the type of grass that fits into landscaping without trying to change things all that much. Bermuda grass is tougher, low-growing, and will get into everything unless you have the barriers in place to prevent it from doing so and you maintain a rigid mowing schedule. However, the comparison between buffalo grass vs bermuda grass goes much deeper than appearance and ease of control.
Appearance
Buffalo grass is, as mentioned above, a gentle type of grass. It’s soft and almost silky. This is a good grass type for anyone that’s okay with longer grasses as it should be kept at 2 inches or higher. If kept in the shade, buffalo grass will do best if kept at 3” to 4”. That’s 4x the height of bermuda grass.
Bermuda is a grass type that grows by sending stolons out along the ground. These “above ground roots” set out several vertical blades of grass each and will mesh between clips of grass to create a lawn. Bermuda grass is a deep green color with rough, broad blades. There are also small hairs on each leaf sheath.
Best Uses for Buffalo Grass and Bermuda Grass
Buffalo grass is best for any low-traffic lawn that has a little shade and allows for grass to be cut long or left to grow. Though it is a warm-season grass, buffalo grass can withstand a freezing winter easily. It also needs little water and fertilization and will retain its color even in a drought.
Bermuda grass requires much more water and nutrients than buffalo grass, but it can be kept short. Bermuda grass is better for average traffic lawns in higher rainfall areas or where there is a frequent risk of standing water.
Soil Types and pH Needs of Buffalo Grass vs Bermuda Grass
Buffalo grass does best with poor, sandy soil. It can also do well in silt and loam provided that the climate is typically dry. In standing water, buffalo grass can have problems with spore-based diseases and mold. The ideal pH for buffalo grass is 6 to 7.5. This is a broader range than most common warm-season grasses and one of the only grass types that do better with alkaline soil compared to acidic soil without exhibiting discoloration.
Bermuda grass has an ideal pH range of 6 to 7 and will handle acidic soils better than alkaline soils. Bermuda requires rich, well-drained soil. It can grow in almost any soil type, except heavy clay as long as the drainage is good and there is plenty of organic matter to feed the grass.
Water Needs for Buffalo Grass vs Bermuda Grass
Buffalo grass only needs .5” of water each week to thrive. It’s adapted well to low-moisture conditions and most buffalo grass lawns require no additional irrigation as long as the average is .5” over each month. This makes buffalo grass a “water smart” variety of grass for any lawn.
Bermuda grass, on the other hand, has average to above-average water consumption at 1” to 1.5” needed per week. Further, Bermuda grass can take up and disburse more water than it needs in hot weather.
Sun, Shade, and Temperature Requirements for Buffalo Grass and Bermuda Grass
Buffalo grass prefers full sun but can do very well in partial shade as long as it gets at least 2 hours of sunlight each day. The more sun buffalo grass gets, the greener its blue-green color tends to be. The more shade it is exposed to, the longer the grass should be cut. For example, with only 4 to 6 hours of sunlight, you want to leave your buffalo grass at least 3” long. Buffalo grass goes dormant each year at the first frost and greens up as temperatures average at least 45F.
Bermuda grass needs full sunlight and does not tolerate shade. It can survive a killing frost but will not thrive after a long, freezing winter. Bermuda will stop growing at 55F and will go dormant as temperatures approach 32F to prevent sudden freezing and damage.
Durability of Buffalo Grass vs Bermuda Grass Lawns
Buffalo grass isn’t particularly durable. The blades are soft, smooth, and not particularly damage-resistant. Buffalo grass is slow to recover, too. The caveat to this is that the longer the buffalo grass is left, the easier a time it will have protecting itself from traffic and disease.
Bermuda grass is more durable than buffalo grass. The blades of Bermuda grass are much stiffer, thicker, and rougher. Still, bermuda grass isn’t the most durable of any lawn grass and is, overall, only of average durability and low recovery. It makes up for this by being fast-growing and replacing any dead patches of lawn quickly.
Common Pests and Diseases for Buffalo Grass Lawns and Bermuda Grass Lawns
Buffalo and bermuda grass are both susceptible to digging and insects at the same level. Neither of these grass types can tolerate heavy foot traffic or scalping. Further, both of these grass types have a similar primary enemy: standing water.
Both bermuda grass and buffalo grass can contract mold, mildew, or fungal disease through contact with standing water in a relatively short time. Bermuda, however, is also likely to experience some level of root rot.
Mowing Needs of Buffalo Grass and Bermuda Grass Lawns
Buffalo grass needs to be kept long. This is not a suggestion. If it’s cut too short, buffalo grass may fail to thrive and will likely die back. Keep buffalo grass at a height of 2” in bright, full sun and 3” or more in partial shade. It will need infrequent mowing. Bermuda grass should be cut down to 1” to 1.5”. It should be mown once a week during summer and not at all during any period of dormancy.
Types of Grass Related to Buffalo Grass
Buffalo grass is not typically cultivated as a lawn grass and is used more often as a prairie and forage or pasture grass. As such, few varieties will provide any benefit to lawn owners.
Types of Grass Related to Bermuda Grass
Bermuda grass has few relatives that make good lawn grasses. It does, however, have a handful of useful cultivars that make use of its particular characteristics. There are, for example, lower growing varieties that need to be mown less often and other strains that have deeper roots to better protect the grass from root rot during periods of heavy rain.
The Best-Case-Scenario for a Buffalo Grass or Bermuda Grass Lawn
A buffalo grass lawn is something that can be left to its own devices more often than not. This is for anyone that wants a lawn that looks more like a piece of prairie. It has a unique color and a texture that you won’t find with another variety of grass typically found in lawns. But it’s not meant for traffic. Bermuda grass is meant to take some damage from traffic. It’s low-growing and resource-intensive, but it makes for a much more “traditional” looking lawn.
An Overview of the Buffalo Grass vs Bermuda Grass Comparison
I’ve put together a quick snapshot overview of the buffalo grass vs bermuda grass comparison for you below, so you can quickly compare the main characteristics of each
Grass Type | Buffalo Grass | Bermuda Grass |
---|---|---|
Appearance | Blue-Green Color with Fine, Smooth Blades | Dark Green with a Coarse Texture – Small Hairs on Leaf Sheath - Stolons |
Popular Uses | Low Water Lawns, Transition Climates, Low-Growing Prairie | Warm to Hot Climate with Average Traffic |
Ideal Soil Type and pH | Well-Drained, Sandy Soil – 6 to 7.5 Ideal pH | Well-Drained and Rich Soil is Ideal - 6 to 7 Ideal pH |
Water Requirements | .5” Per Week – Low Water Consumption | 1” to 1.5” of Water Per Week – Average Overall Water Consumption |
Sun/Shade/Temperature Needs | Direct Sunlight Preferred But not Essential – More Sun Leads to a Greener Appearance – Goes Dormant After 1st Frost | Full Sun Required – True Dormancy at 32F – Stopped Growth Below 55F |
Durability | Low Durability and Recovery Rate | Average Durability and Recovery |
Pests and Diseases | Mold, Mildew, Moss, and Algae if Too Moist – Webworms, Thrips, Grubs – Digging Animals | Mold, Mildew, Moss, and Algae if Too Moist – Webworms, Thrips, Grubs – Digging Animals |
Mowing Needs | Should Be Mown to a Height of 2” to 4” - The More Shade, the Higher the Grass | Should Be Mown to 1.5” to 2.5” On Average – Grows Best in Warm to Hot Weather |
Dan says
Would you recommend buffalo grass supreme over bermuda grass in corona calif?
Guru says
Hi Dan,
For water conservation alone, I would stick with the buffalo grass supreme in this region as long as you’re not planning to regularly play sports or encourage other types of heavy, rough traffic on your lawn.
Hope this helps 🙂
Tom.
David Taylor says
Great article. I’m not sure how but my daughter found this and shared it with me. We live in the high desert area of Colorado and were seriously thinking about Bermuda…but after reading this, it’ll be Buffalo. My only concern is my dog traffic and my soil (dirt really, no soil). The dogs have made a path from the back door to the tree and around the tree barking at the squirrels. Is there some grass that might be like Buffalo as far as planting, watering, and mowing needs but more durable? Or something to supplement the paths that will be wore down again?
Guru says
Hi David,
Sorry about the slow response. I completely missed your comment somehow.
Pretty much any type of lawn is going to struggle with high traffic. So it’s not as easy as picking a different type of grass. I think if it was me, I would add aeration to my yard maintenance to overcome the issue of soil compaction. The constant traffic of the dog will compact the soil and cause a problem for all grass types. This process will certainly give the grass a better chance of success.
Here are a couple of articles that explain more about aeration and its benefits.
https://lawnmowerguru.com/how-to-aerate-a-lawn/
https://lawnmowerguru.com/how-to-aerate-lawn-by-hand/
Alternatively, you could think about turning the path that the dog uses to the tree into an actual path. This would take care of the cause of the issue straight away. I think managing the area will be a constant battle between the grass and your dog.
Thanks for the question.
Tom.